Sunday, November 15, 2015

Pacaya Samiria National Reserve by skiff. Amazon adventure

Our journey on the Queen Violeta was a wonderful experience. Today we will show you a little of the natural environment as it is all about the bird and animal life. Later when we get better wifi we will add the villages and people.
We had sightings of birds constantly. Any time you looked there would be birds in the frame! We saw over 50 different species along with over a dozen animals
We went our four times on the first full day, sometimes by boat but other times walking. We went out before breakfast and after dinner!
The skiff that holds 32 people was great for just the two of us.

It was not the Titanic or the Seabourn Quest but it was the perfect viewing platform

                                                       
                                                      A Black Collared Hawk

                                                       The Rufescent Tiger Heron

                                                                 A Green Iguana

We ventured up small creeks all part of the mighty Amazon system. We then returned for breakfast!

Saturday, November 14, 2015

Travelling up the Amazon

Up the River
We took the only flight from Manaus to Tabatinga but unfortunately it was delayed by several hours resulting in a domino effect.

We have never come across such complex immigration procedures as apply at this triangle of Brazil, Columbia and Peru.  From the Tabatinga airport, we caught a taxi to the Brazilian immigration and formally exited Brazil.  With zero English from the immigration officers and the equivalent Portuguese on our part, the process was somewhat convoluted.

We needed to cross the river to Peru to validate our passports before our early morning departure.  The office was closed and did not open until 3 hours after the boat to Iquitos departed.

We continued by taxi to our hotel in Leticia (Columbia) and spent the night stateless between countries.

We could not catch our early morning boat and instead the morning buying new boat tickets and going over to validate our passports.  We went to the small port of Leticia and negotiated with a boatman to take us to Santa Rosa in Peru.  We walked up across the boards to the village and eventually located the immigration office.  This village reminded us of a poor South East Asian settlement of the 1960’s.

                                             Gail walking down to the boats to Santa Rosa


 Down the creek and across the river to Peru.On the way back the outboard stopped several times with plastic around the prop but after it was cleared each time it was discarded back into the water!


                                                 Gail walking up to the Immigration Post

                                                      One of the Santa Rosa locals

With everything in order, we crossed back over and walked back to our hotel and celebrated with a swim in the hotel pool, not the Amazon!


The next morning, we got up at 2.30 am, took a taxi at 3.00 am to Tabatinga port where it was much easier to get down into the boat.  We crossed the river, went through immigration and readied ourselves for our long trip up the Amazon to Iquitos.


We saw small villages, local boat traffic including the boat carrying this little pig along with a cow. On the upper decks were the sleeping quarters.


It was a long and uneventful trip.  Our cruise was due to depart at lunchtime and we arrived at 3.30 pm!  With the help of our motokar (tuk tuk) driver, we got our bags to the top of the bank and soon checked into the hotel where we were supposed to be the day before.

First thing we did was check our email as we had advised the travel company that we were delayed.  To our surprise there was a message saying that we would be picked up at the port at 5.30 pm and that the ship was waiting for us.

We checked back out of the hotel and arranged to be picked up from there.  We were really pleased that things had not worked out too badly after all.

It took 2 hours to drive the 100 km to reach the port of Nauto where the ship was.  We arrived in time for dinner ready to meet our fellow travellers.  The ship is a little bit bigger than we expected – 50 m. long and 4 decks high.  There are 10 cabins on deck1 (not 6 as we thought) and we are in one of the 6 suites on the upper deck along with the dining room.  The 2 top decks have lounges and hammocks.



The next surprise was there were no other guests.  We had the ship to ourselves plus the 10 or so crew.  This has been a bizarre couple of days but it was a very comfortable ship (not Seabourn of course) and the scenery and wildlife were beyond belief.



Manaus

We finally reached Manaus the largest city on the Amazon. It has about 5 million people so more than just an Amazonian village. We spent two days before continuing up the Amazon but this was the end of our luxury Seabourn trip
There is still a lot of wildlife and we visited the Manatee Research Station. We saw Giant otters and lots of tortoises as well as the gentle manatees

                                                         Tortoises all in a row

                               The Manatee is a very gentle creature. Very expressive eyes!

Gail at the opera house. This is a real work of art

We visited the markets. In addition to the array of fruits, vegetables, fish etc we spotted some other products produced with rainforest materials

We visited the famous Manaus opera house twice. In the evening for a performance and the next morning to tour the beautiful building.
The performance was just so so but the building is a masterpiece, if a little past its best! It was built by and for the wealthy Portuguese using the best materials from Europe



More Boi Bumba dancers

Some groovy dancers!










Sunday, November 8, 2015

Boi Bumba

Paritins was our next port of call as we sailed up the Amazon. The highlight was a visit to the Bumbadome where the Boi Bumba is celebrated each June. Later we saw a performance by the current champion team. A stunning performance with outstanding costumes, staging and dancing.
We were given a private viewing of the historic costume display. Gail tried on a small one!


The town is divided into two teams, red and blue. The Blue team has the black bull and the red team the white bull.


                                                Wonderful costumes and dancing.


The stage sets were huge. This green character is holding a dancer. Can you see her back?


Another of the great performers. We will send an extra blog of photos

Santarem

Our first stop on the Amazon after clearing immigration at Macapa was at Santarem. The river is still so wide that you cannot see the sides but there are many islands along the way
We went on a shore excursion to the town highlights and Alto Cho
This beach is considered one of the best in Brazil and is called The Caribbean of Brazil.




Like any beach in Brazil it is a place to party and the locals soon have you included


We watched local dancers tell the tale of the seduction of local girls by the pink dolphin. The other photos are R rated!

                                   
                                                           A little green gecko

We also visited a manioc flour house and plantations as we drove 40 km out of town.

Devils Island


After two days sailing the Atlantic we reached the tiny French settlement of Devils Island a part of French Guiana. There are three small islands with Ile Royale being the one with extensive remains of the old goals.
The islands are infamous as prisons from 1852 till 1953. This is where the story of Papillon originates along with Captain Alfred Dreyfus. It was a cruel and barbaric place. Strangely flowers now grow close to the cells and prison blocks.

                                                               The Old hospital

The remains include old prison cells and hospitals and even churches.



                                            Gail in the gaol cell

Just across the narrow straight is the small island of Ile du Diable or Devils Island a name synonymous with suffering and punishment. The piranhas and sharks made escape an option that few tried