Sunday, September 8, 2019

Revisiting the Battle for Saipan.




We arrived in Saipan, the largest island of the Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands.  The island sits adjacent to the Marianas Trench, the deepest place in the earth’s oceans where it plummets to almost 11 km.  It has been visited 3 times and visits are as common as visits to the moon.  We think mankind reached the moon before anyone reached the bottom of this trench.  

Saipan was the first of the islands to the south of Japan retaken by US forces and provided the air base for attacks on the islands of Japan. We had previously visited Okinawa, the site of the bloodiest battle.  This trip is ideal for World War 2 history buffs.

After we cleared US immigration, we went by shuttle into the main town of Garipan.  It was Sunday and nothing was open when we arrived so after using some internet, we walked to the American Memorial Park and to a museum at the visitors’ centre.


                       Chinese investment in Saipan : This hotel goes along with the casino.


                                                                  Field of Heroes


Most of the key sites are way out of town and there is no public transport so we engaged a taxi to drive us around.  Our driver was excellent and he was a very effective guide and very considerate of our needs.

We visited the Bird Island Lookout and took some of the steps down to gain fabulous views of this wildlife sanctuary.


                                                     Gail and Rob at Bird Island


We then drove to the Grotto which is located 100 – 200 metres inland.  It is possible (with scuba gear) to swim from the grotto in an underwater tunnel to the ocean but difficult to find the gap to return.  It is very steep with lots of steps down but our guide knew a great spot with views overlooking the grotto.


                 
                                                           View over the Grotto

After the US forces took control of the island, the last of the Japanese troops and many local residents kept retreating to the  north and believing the propaganda about what the Americans would do, took their own lives at Suicide Cliff.  We drove to the top of the cliff with its memorials and commanding views over the coast before driving back down where we could observe the reality of how high and sheer the cliff actually is.



                         The view from Suicide Cliff looking over the American Memorial


                            Memorial A mix of Christian, Buddhist and Bomb images




We had an especially interesting visit to the “last Command Post” of the Japanese where we toured a cliffside bunker and looked at the old abandoned tanks and guns remaining.  All this was in the shadow of Suicide Cliff.


                              Gail and Rob at the Last Command Post



                                              All that remains of a tank from the battle


                                       View to Suicide Cliff from below



We drove past the US memorial to Banzai Cliff on the coast where many of the Japanese soldiers jumped rather than be captured.  There are many memorials to the dead erected after the war by relatives.  It was a very moving place to visit.



                                                 Gail at the cliffs of Banzai


                                                          Memorials at Banzai


We drove past some of the large hotel and resort developments along the coast where the beaches are sheltered by a fringing reef.

Our major stop was at Pau Pau Beach which is stunningly beautiful.  We had planned to swim and the weather was certainly right for that but time was such that we just had time to paddle.



                                                         Feet in the water

We drove down the line of beaches back to the town, purchased some local beers and souvenirs and caught the shuttle back to the ship (about 15 minutes).



                                                        Rob meets the locals

We were back about half an hour before the all aboard and too late for lunch but went up for pizza, cake and ice cream


                                       View of a wreck taken from our balcony



                         A yellow submarine  The Beatles must have been inside!

The ship sailed because we had to leave the island during daylight hours due to the coral fringed channels.

We sailed for Guam but on the way passed Tinian Island.  This was where the Enola Gae flew from on its bombing raid to Hiroshima.



Saturday, September 7, 2019

Outrunning the Cyclone from Okinawa.




With tropical cyclone Ling Ling bearing down on Okinawa, our ship only stopped for us to clear Japanese immigration and to refuel to get us to Sydney.

With our reduced time ashore, we had time to do just one thing, so we decided to visit Shurijo Castle in Naha, the capital.  This castle was the focal point of the Ryukyu kingdom that paid tribute to China and acted as a major trading centre.

Okinawa did not become a prefecture of Japan until 1879.  It is more Chinese that Japanese in its style.

The castle was obliterated in the battle of Okinawa in 1945 but rebuilt to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the return of Okinawa to Japan in 1972. It is different from any   castle in Japan and looks more like a scaled down version of Beijing’s “Forbidden City”.

We entered through the main gates, removed our shoes and walked all around the different levels of the castle.



                                             Rob at the main entry gate.



                                                        Gail at the front of the castle



                                             Rob’s turn in the front of the castle.



                                                        View from the inside.



                                            Gail and Rob on the ramparts.


We were conscious that we had to return to the ship for an early sailing but made time to walk briefly through the gardens.


                                                       Gail in the outer garden.


We retraced our steps walking back 15 minutes to the monorail station.  Along the way, we took photos of some of the many lion dogs that are found on roofs and fences “protecting” the property.

         
                                                         Lion dog up on the roof.



                                                         Another savage lion dog!


After our 20 minute monorail trip, we still had a 15 minute walk back to the ship and only stopped for a short detour into a park.


                                                 Rob recovers his breath in the park.


We made it back to the pier in time to check our emails and spend the last of our Japanese yen before clearing immigration to exit Japan.  All aboard was 11.30 am instead of the original time of 8.00 pm.



Amami

We spent a short day in Amami O Shima. It is one of over 160 islands in the chain than extends down to Okinawa in the south. About 48 are settled.
It was small and we didn't have much time to get out of Naze the main city.
It is a centre of silk production and pottery.
A few photos:


                                               Kimono made from local silk.

                                                   Some traditional handicrafts.


                                                 Checking out the shoe shop.


                                                  Photo from our cabin balcony.


                                          A large group of drummers played for us.

Monday, September 2, 2019

Nagasaki



There is a lot to see in Nagasaki when you only have the one day! We were able to walk from the ship to the tram stop and catch the tram to the Peace Park. We walked up to the Fountain of Peace and the Peace Statue. They are very symbolic. The Peace Statue has one arm raised pointing up to symbolise the danger of atomic warfare and the bomb and the other arm in a symbol of peace. It seems to float over the square from certain positions. We were able to go to the top by a series of escalators


                                                       Gail at the Fountain of Peace


                                                               The Peace Statue
There are many statues and we can only share a few. They have mostly been donated by different countries in support of peace.



                                         There are many beautiful statues.



We made our way down past The Atomic Bomb Hypo Centre with a stark column marking the position. Later we walked through the Atomic Bomb Museum.  There were graphic pictures but we did not take many photos as it is a sombre place and showed that more than half the population died as a result of that one bomb.


This photo tells the story.  At 11.52 am when the B52 bomber dropped the atomic bomb known as “fatboy”  on 9 August 1945, this clock stopped forever.

After returning to the ship for a very late lunch we soon headed out again. We stopped at the Chinese Confucian temple as it is the only one in this style built outside China and demonstrates the strong Chinese influence in early Nagasaki. What we came across changed our mood from this morning’s sombre visit to the A bomb site. We came across young children practising for a lion dance performance for the festival to be held in October. The kids had all the moves and as their only audience other than their Mums and Dads, they made us very welcome. Later we toured the temple and museum.


                                        We have video but not sure if it will download


                                                The adults were showing them the steps.


                                                          The Lion King


                                               A highlight of the trip!


                                The temple was excellent. This bridge made for great photos



                                                          Just look at. those Koi carp

    

Our next visit was to the Glover Gardens.  Thomas Glover was a Scottish man who came to Japan in the 1880s as a young man, set up a business in Nagasaki and stayed.  The gardens are very beautiful with ponds filled with koi carp, statues and several interesting buildings.  The main house unfortunately was closed for earthquake strengthening but we visited several houses belonging to other expat families from that era. 



                                           More fish. This time at the gardens.


                                                    A model of the Endeavour


                           A view over the gardens from one of the many historic buildings


                                       View over the churches and buildings to our ship.


We also visited the performing arts museum that houses these huge floats that are carried through the streets during the major city festival

One of the many statues in the gardens was  Puccini with a butterfly on his shoulder because his opera Madame Butterfly is set here in Nagasaki.  Our evening entertainment was excerpts from the opera performed by the local opera group.  It was excellent.


                                                        Madame Butterfly


                                                         Puccini with his little butterfly

As we walked back to our ship through the Seaside Park, there were people walking their dogs and we saw a bride and groom posing for photos.


 You have seen lots of photos of brides but this is the Flower Dog!



The production was a wonderful way to end a great day in Nagasaki.